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Yountville, CA

Temperature: 72°F
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Sunrise: 5:56 am GMT-8
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Updated: 8:54 am GMT-8

November 2006
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Archive for November, 2006

Are We All A Bunch Of Snobs?

November 28, 2006 in Rants, Wine and Wine Business. 0 Comments

I was skimming here and there and found this interesting post in “Life’s a Picnic”. Very enjoyable reading, but what really got my attention was Greg’s reluctance to visit a winery because he was convinced that the people would be “too serious and snobby.” And this from a foodie, if you take a look at his posts.

Snob

ARGHH!!!! Mortally wounded! After all these years in winery hospitality, at wineries big and small, reading that we’re so perceived makes me break out in a cold sweat. I have invested considerable effort in dispelling this “serious and snobby” thing over more years than I care to admit and, when I was in a position to influence others, I coached them to be unfailingly kind, helpful, informative and, most importantly, FUN! Wine is about a lot of things, but in the end it’s about fun, isn’t it?

Anyway, he was going, with some trepidation, to meet the winemaker at Periscope Cellars in Emeryville, CA. He observed that “The surroundings are certainly not like the palatial settings of the North Counties, more like a big old military bunker…”

And he was delighted to find out that the Winemaker was actually fun to be with. “While having serious credentials and experience he is far from snobby. Brian seems part guy next door, part artist and part mad scientist. He is generous to a fault with his time and seems extremely happy to be doing his wine thing.”

You know, that description fits a whole lot of winemakers I’ve known. I think what people forget when they see all the fancy architecture is that we’re still an agriculturally-based business, and that the work is physical! Sure, there are ivory-tower winemakers and high-flying consultants, but they’re much more the exception than the rule. Most of us in the wine industry are just ordinary people who choose to make our living in wine because we love it.

For those of you who like wine but believe as Greg does, I hope you’ll reconsider and hit the wine trail again. I’ll acknowledge that wine brings out the worst in some people, and those are the folks you want to avoid. And yes, you can find very formal situations with intimidating tasting rooms and astronomical tasting fees, but if you investigate a little, you can also find little places like ours that are off the beaten track. You may not find a grand villa, but you will find that lots of us are genuinely glad to see you, show you a good time and answer your questions without a hint of pretense. Plus, we’ll pour some seriously-fine wine (without taking it too seriously).

It may mean getting off the main highways and onto the sideroads or up in the hills, but that just makes an ordinary outing more like an adventure. COME ON DOWN!

And Now, it’s Procyanidins!

November 23, 2006 in Wine News. 0 Comments

So, we’ve just gotten past the resveratrol craze and realized we’d have to drink enough wine to kill us to get the benefit (although now they say it might also help to prevent strokes–stay tuned). And now it’s procyanidins, which apparently are condensed tannins found in red wine that are thought to be beneficial to blood vessels and arteries. So, it’s back to the old polyphenol story, which is also the resveratrol story, which is also the French Paradox story. It seems it’s all about anti-oxidants.

Yippee! We can add this very positive piece of news to the growing heap of data about the potential benefits of drinking a little red wine every day. Even if a bunch of studies come out to contest the efficasy of procyanidins next week, it’s great publicity.

Now, this stuff, I just love: “Wines richest in these tannins had the greatest protective effect on the cells and were from regions - Sardinia and southwest France - that use Old World winemaking techniques.” This, according to a story in WebMD (and everywhere!) regarding a study done at the William Harvey Research Institute at the Queen Mary’s School of Medicine and Dentistry in England.

I’m not questioning the results of the research, which found these wines to have significantly higher levels of procyanidins than the other wines they tested. It’s just that these generalizations kind of annoy me. The thing is, with global communication, you can find old-world and high-tech winemaking happening side-by-side in virtually any wine-producing region in the world these days.

Another article on the subject said that there’s an unusually high percentage of centenarians in Madiran, a wine-producing region in southwestern France. Perhaps that explains the old-world approach to winemaking? Presumably their longevity is a testament to drinking lots of dark, tannic Madiran wine.

Madiran

So, now the poor retailers have to scramble to track down and stock the formerly somewhat obscure wines of Madiran and reds from Sardinia, just as health-food stores are struggling to keep resveratrol supplements on the shelves.

Anyway, I suspect this has more to do with the grape varieties used, and less with the winemaking techniques. There was a reference to 21-day skin contact times in Madiran winemaking. Well, that’s not unusual for a good Napa Valley Cab, though it may be lower in procyanidins even so. I don’t know.

Southern France

Then, finally, they mention that the red grape variety of choice in Madiran is Tannat, a variety almost unique to southwest France. According to Jancis Robinson, “Young Tannat can be so deeply coloured and tannic that it recalls Nebbiolo.” Hmmm. I wonder if they did any tests on Barolo?

Whatever… Of course, we all like to hear good news about the benefits of drinking red wine. As the article said: “Several studies have shown that moderate drinkers of red wine have less heart disease than non-drinkers” and, if true, it’s good for for all of us, producers and consumers. As much as has been written about polyphenols, you begin to think there might be something to it. Even if reports on what’s good or bad for us change as often the weather.

Me, I drink wine, whatever its color, because I like it. But the message is clear: whatever else you consume, be sure and drink a glass or two of red wine a day. It could be good for our health, and we KNOW it enhances our lives and, of course, our sense of well-being! Bottoms up!

Kermit Lynch, Wine Merchant

November 21, 2006 in Selling Wine, Wine and Wine Business. 0 Comments

As kind of a coda to my last posting, “Alternatives to Wine Ratings” in which I suggested you find a retailer you trust, I have to give a plug to one of my very favorite wine merchants, and he’s one I’ve actually never met.

Nouveau Beaujolais

Kermit Lynch has to be the best wine writer on the planet. Every month when his newsletter arrives, he makes me want to buy out his entire inventory. He even has me lusting after wines of a type I don’t generally care for because he describes them so vividly, and with genuine affection. And that helps me to become that more adventurous, independent consumer that I’m always talking about.

It takes more than great writing to create a loyal customer. Over the years, I’ve found that his descriptions, which are not accompanied by numerical ratings, are pretty darned close to what I experience once I pop the cork. He’s not sitting at his desk in Berkeley, ordering out of a catalogue. He and his staff hand-select the wines and buy them directly from the producers, so the quality of the wines is reliable. It was interesting that when Colleen, our proprietor, and I were in Provence and Chateauneuf-du-Pape last month (see post titled “Culinary Getaways a la Provencal ” the name Kermit Lynch was well known, and in one case, a producer asked if I knew how to get his attention. Who, me???

And there’s the bummer. Provence is his springboard for buying wines from all over France, with an occasional sprinkling of Italian wines. I prefer to buy local most of the time, but I can’t resist placing an occasional order with Kermit Lynch. I rationalize by reminding myself that tasting wines from outside my own back yard is important to my work.

Anyway, if for no other reason than a great read, you should subscribe to his newsletter. I tell ya, if I won the lottery, he’d have to buy another truck just to keep up with my deliveries!

Alternatives To Wine Ratings?

November 20, 2006 in Selling Wine and Wine. 1 Comment

You’d think we’ve all read enough about wine ratings by now, but it’s a complex subject and everybody has an opinion. I’ve sometimes lamented that so many of us allow a small handful of powerful wine writers to tell us what to like, and therefore, to determine what sells. I wish we’d all be more adventurous and learn to trust our palates. But, how??? I realize that there are seemingly endless wines out there to choose from, so we all need some kind of guide that we can rely upon.

Wine Rating Just in time for Thanksgiving, I’m grateful to Catherine Rabb of the Charlotte Observer for saying to thousands what I’ve suggested to individuals all these years: Find a retailer you trust and develop the relationship. If you can get to know the retailer, and more importantly, they can get to know your tastes, you’re going to have tons of fun without having to pay a premium for the 90+ score. As the relationship grows they’ll start suggesting unusual wines from off the beaten track and that’s when the fun really begins.

Even in our Napa backwater, there’s a warehouse-style liquor store with a wine bar that’s open every day! Quite often they offer flights so you can try an ounce or so of several wines. There’s no substitute for tasting to develop and begin to trust your palate. Make a point of talking to the person behind the bar about what you like and don’t like about the wines and he’ll become a good advisor for you down the road.

Of course, a really fun way to try a bunch of different wines is to visit a wine producing region! You can try a substantial number of wines in just a few days and discover some hidden gems that may not be available at home.

Take advantage of the wine-by-the-glass progams offered by so many restaurants now. And if there’s a good sommelier, pick his brain or just flat-out take his suggestions if you’re feeling adventurous. You may make a new discovery (who knew you liked Grüner Veltliner?) and the sommelier actually appreciates intelligent interaction as opposed to just selling another glass of Pinot Grigio.

My favorite option: form a tasting group. Meet every month. For each month you can select a variety and vintage and try a number of examples. You can have a global Chardonnay tasting or just try Long Island Chardonnays this month. You can do anything you want, and the beauty of it is you get to try maybe a dozen examples for the price of one if there are twelve members in your group, sharing the cost. You’ll be amazed at how quickly you become opinionated about the attributes of warm climate vs. cold climate Sauvignon Blanc, or whatever the variety. Plus, you learn a lot from your tasting buddies and have a blast doing it!

And even the wine ratings, used judiciously, can be of some use. They’re much more valuable if they’re accompanied by apt descriptors. Instead of detecting “sweet woodruff” or some other esoteric descriptor, I love the writers who try to communicate a sense of what the wine is actually going to smell, taste and feel like: fruit-driven vs. earthy or mineral; light, medium or full-bodied for the type; no or minimal oak vs. splinters in the wine…

The numbers are tricky because, as Gary Rivlin of the NY Times pointed out, “A rating system that draws a distinction between a cabernet scoring 90 and one receiving an 89 implies a precision of the senses that even many wine critics agree that human beings do not possess.” Yet, we know that the 90 sets off bells and sales and the 89 leaves the wine sitting lonely on the shelf. Also, aside from the fact that many publications accept advertising revenues from wineries, a growing number of those rating the wines are also selling wine. I call that a conflict of interest.

But, maybe you can find a publication that’s aligned with your taste. You may agree with the conclusions of the Wine Enthusiast more often than the Wine Spectator. Myself, if I read about a wine that has a great score and a good price to go with it, I don’t run out and buy a case. I buy a taste or a bottle and try it. If I agree that the wine is delicious and a great value, then I can go back and get that case.

We all know we’re our own best judges. Let me know what you think. How do you go about buying wine minus the numbers system?

Q: What Does “Estate Bottled” Mean?

November 19, 2006 in Answers. 0 Comments

Question from Mark: What is the definition of “Estate Bottled”?

Answer: Hi, Mark! This term confuses a lot of people. Contrary to popular belief, the word “Estate” does not necessarily signify that the winery owns the vineyard from which this wine was made. Rather, 100% of the grapes must be from vineyards owned or controlled (minimum 3-year contract or lease) by the winery. If a wine label says “Estate Bottled”, it also means that the winery crushed, fermented, finished, aged, and bottled the wine in a continuous process on site (”on site” to differentiate these wineries from wineries that make wine at other facilities).

There’s a page on our website that has several of the regulations. I hope that helps! Cheers! Nancy

Le Beaujolais Nouveau Est Arrivée!

November 16, 2006 in Food & Wine. 0 Comments

It’s the third Thursday of November! They’re here! Wine that was fruit on the vine a couple of months ago is bottled and ready to drink!

Nouveau Beaujolais

I’ve always been dazzled by the accomplishment, probably more than the wine itself. Oh, I’ll pick up a few bottles to be sure. It’s so fruity and charming, just not a whole lot more. My favorite memory of a Beaujolais Nouveau was one that smelled exactly like my aunt Linda’s ambrosia salad, including the marshmallows. Wish I could remember the brand… And Beaujolais Nouveau is a great choice for your turkey for next week.

But, you have to be really organized to harvest, crush, ferment, press, clarify, bottle and get it out on the shelves by November 16, assuming you harvested around September 16th. Wow!

Even more impressive is the brilliant marketing. They’ve built this mystique around the wine, that if you don’t drink it right away it will spoil! The stuff flys off the shelves! Pure genius.

Get serious. Any well-made wine should have at least a couple of good years. It won’t be as vibrantly fruity a year from now as it is today, but if it isn’t drinkable, I have a quarrel with that.

I’ll tell you what I think: the best time to drink Beaujolais Nouveau is summertime. With all that fruity vivacity and almost zero tannin, it’s one of the few reds that tastes good chilled. So, on that warm summer evening, or at your 4th of July picnic, you fire up the barbeque, throw on the burgers and pop some well-chilled Beaujolais Nouveau . What could be better???? Santé!

Ain’t Nothin’ Simple

November 14, 2006 in Observations, Selling Wine, Wine, Wine Business and Wine Education. 0 Comments

That’s what my Dad always used to say…

Our growers often drop by with friends, or just to taste the latest and see what’s new. In this case, Geoff Gorsuch, our Winemaker, specifically invited a grower in to try a wine that was coming along especially well. He wanted the grower to literally taste the fruit of his labors–the absolutely delicious wine we made from his vineyard.

Head down, concentrating, he smelled and tasted. He paused and looked up at Geoff. He smelled it again. Smiled. He took a few more sips and suggested “…you know, it would be a great idea to give this wine a vineyard designation.” which translates to us as “he knows this is good stuff and wants his name associated with it.” It’s a happy thing for both parties.

So, I’m working on the back label for the wine and Geoff tells me about this conversation. He’s totally in favor of it. He loves the fruit that comes from this vineyard and, probably more importantly, he really likes and admires the grower - kind of an old-time, authentic, Napa Valley hands-on farmer. Nothing pretentious about him. Grows great fruit with lots of care–salt of the earth kind of guy. Geoff’s thinking this is a done deal.

Wishing to keep my job, before I add the grower’s name to the label, I run it by David, who co-owns the winery with Geoff. Got an e-mail back: “Let’s discuss”.

Hmmm, I think. What’s to discuss? Single vineyard wines are hot, and the vineyard designation seems to take the wine up a notch in the eyes of the consumer. It makes it appear more limited and upscale. What’s David thinking?

Good thing I checked. He’s thinking like a business man. He has no problem with putting the grower’s name on the label, but we need to sign some papers first - a long-term contract with pricing and quality standards. As it stands, with a year-to-year agreement, putting his name on the label is like running a full-page ad for the grower in the Wine Business Monthly. We can’t be the only ones to recognize the quality, and if another winemaker tastes the wine and is similarly impressed, he’s just a phone call away from trying to outbid us for the fruit. But not if he doesn’t know who the grower is. As we look to build brand value and recognition for Goosecross wines, growers look to build vineyard designations. Both designed to improve the bottom line with potential conflicts.

Everybody brings a different perspective to the table, even at a very small winery like Goosecross. Geoff (being a farmer himself) was being emotional, and wanted to honor the grower. As a wine educator, I was thinking of the great story I could tell about this little vineyard off in the hills. But clearly, the thing to do is to go with David’s recommendation. Wine is perhaps more of a romantic business than most, but it’s still a business. Gotta get that long-term contract signed and then give the grower that place of honor on the label.

When we get to talking about what goes on the wine label, guests at the winery are invariably surprised and somewhat amused to find out that there are regulations behind the statements we make about vintage, location and varietal content - and restrictions regarding what we can say to describe the wine. At first glance, everything seems simple.

Wish I could share the name of the mystery vineyard and wine with you, but I’m not sure we’ve dotted all the i’s and crossed all the t’s yet. For now, it remains a mystery…

By the way: in the USA, a vineyard designation requires that at least 95% of the grapes come from the named site. Click here to read about some of these regulations in understandable terms.

That was the crush that was!

November 10, 2006 in Harvest Report, Vintage Update and Wine Education. 0 Comments

If you’ve been checking our Harvest Calendar, you know that we’ve wrapped up the 2006 harvest by pressing the last of the Estate Cabernet Franc and Petite Verdot October 20.

Our Winemaker (my business partner - Geoff Gorsuch), comments “It was a rapid-fire harvest and we’re all tired, but quality looks great. Crop yields were way down from last year, the berries were small and loaded with flavor and we’ve got intense, deep color in the reds. The very mild weather we’ve had this month and last was great for hang-time and allowed for plenty of flavor development without too much sugar. Overall balance looks terrific. We’re thankful to be able to say that it looks like an excellent vintage for us.” Amen to that! It must be quite a feeling when that last grape is crushed. No more worrying about the weather, the sugar, grape maturity… It’s all safely “in the barn” as they say, and this after a year that presented us with floods, late bud-break, a prolonged heat-wave in July and low humidity and high winds in September that whipped up the Yountville fire. Sounds awful, but when you take a step back and look at the growing season as a whole, we had quite a cool growing season overall, almost no rain, even ripening. And we’re mighty grateful!

Some memorable moments from our crush:

The tiniest, most exquisite Cabernet you’ve ever seen came down from Howell Mountain the first week of crush - way early, but gorgeous! You oughta see the color on that wine!
This wasn’t terribly amusing at the time, but the day our crusher-stemmer broke down (see our entry titled “Just Another Day at the Office”) in the middle of crushing the Estate Cab reminded us of how great it is to have good neighbors and that sometimes the weather actually does what you want. If the darn thing had to break down, it picked the right day and the grapes waited patiently on a very cool day rather than cooking in the sun while we fixed it.
Work-addled Erin, Geoff’s worthy assistant, got up at 2:00am, convinced that she’d left a pump running after the last pump-over and drove to the winery in the middle of the night to check it. It was off. All was well. Except sleep-deprived Erin, of course…
Geoff had just spoken to the crew about the importance of not taking a restroom break when grapes have been fed into the crusher-stemmer after realizing someone, believe it or not, had begun to walk away for that purpose. Normally the reason to hover over the hopper is to watch for excess leaves or dried grapes, kind of a final sorting. But in the very next load, by following his advice, they caught a wrench just about to go into the crusher stemmer and wreak havoc. Saved us from another break-down! That wrench was taped to the side of the hopper, as a reminder, for the rest of harvest.

There’s still plenty to do, and the sweet aromas of fermenting Chardonnay and Cabernet linger enticingly. Harvest Photo Three
Harvest Photo Four

Now that we’re finished pressing, Geoff can look forward to getting his life back on a more normal schedule as he gets the new wines moved into barrels. The Chardonnay will probably need about 6 months in oak, so you can look forward to seeing it next summer. The reds will take anywhere from 14 to 24 months and during that time Geoff will taste and re-taste to narrow down the almost endless blending possibilities. For instance, he has 4 separate lots of Cabernet from our 10-acre estate vineyard that represent different clones, rootstock hybrids and spacing and consequently have slightly different flavor profiles. Plus he has estate Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petite Verdot to consider too (he calls the Petite Verdot a “blending Goddess”). Will it all boil down to an Estate Cabernet? Our first Estate Meritage? We’ll keep you posted…

Harvest Photo One
Harvest Photo Two