Napa Valley Wine Radio

You’d think we’ve all read enough about wine ratings by now, but it’s a complex subject and everybody has an opinion. I’ve sometimes lamented that so many of us allow a small handful of powerful wine writers to tell us what to like, and therefore, to determine what sells. I wish we’d all be more adventurous and learn to trust our palates. But, how??? I realize that there are seemingly endless wines out there to choose from, so we all need some kind of guide that we can rely upon.

Just in time for Thanksgiving, I’m grateful to Catherine Rabb of the Charlotte Observer for saying to thousands what I’ve suggested to individuals all these years: Find a retailer you trust and develop the relationship. If you can get to know the retailer, and more importantly, they can get to know your tastes, you’re going to have tons of fun without having to pay a premium for the 90+ score. As the relationship grows they’ll start suggesting unusual wines from off the beaten track and that’s when the fun really begins.

Even in our Napa backwater, there’s a warehouse-style liquor store with a wine bar that’s open every day! Quite often they offer flights so you can try an ounce or so of several wines. There’s no substitute for tasting to develop and begin to trust your palate. Make a point of talking to the person behind the bar about what you like and don’t like about the wines and he’ll become a good advisor for you down the road.

Of course, a really fun way to try a bunch of different wines is to visit a wine producing region! You can try a substantial number of wines in just a few days and discover some hidden gems that may not be available at home.

Take advantage of the wine-by-the-glass progams offered by so many restaurants now. And if there’s a good sommelier, pick his brain or just flat-out take his suggestions if you’re feeling adventurous. You may make a new discovery (who knew you liked Grüner Veltliner?) and the sommelier actually appreciates intelligent interaction as opposed to just selling another glass of Pinot Grigio.

My favorite option: form a tasting group. Meet every month. For each month you can select a variety and vintage and try a number of examples. You can have a global Chardonnay tasting or just try Long Island Chardonnays this month. You can do anything you want, and the beauty of it is you get to try maybe a dozen examples for the price of one if there are twelve members in your group, sharing the cost. You’ll be amazed at how quickly you become opinionated about the attributes of warm climate vs. cold climate Sauvignon Blanc, or whatever the variety. Plus, you learn a lot from your tasting buddies and have a blast doing it!

And even the wine ratings, used judiciously, can be of some use. They’re much more valuable if they’re accompanied by apt descriptors. Instead of detecting “sweet woodruff”  or some other esoteric descriptor, I love the writers who try to communicate a sense of what the wine is actually going to smell, taste and feel like: fruit-driven vs. earthy or mineral; light, medium or full-bodied for the type; no or minimal oak vs. splinters in the wine…

The numbers are tricky because, as Gary Rivlin of the NY Times pointed out, “A rating system that draws a distinction between a cabernet scoring 90 and one receiving an 89 implies a precision of the senses that even many wine critics agree that human beings do not possess.”  Yet, we know that the 90 sets off bells and sales and the 89 leaves the wine sitting lonely on the shelf. Also, aside from the fact that many publications accept advertising revenues from wineries, a growing number of those rating the wines are also selling wine. I call that a conflict of interest.

But, maybe you can find a publication that’s aligned with your taste. You may agree with the conclusions of the Wine Enthusiast more often than the Wine Spectator. Myself, if I read about a wine that has a great score and a good price to go with it, I don’t run out and buy a case. I buy a taste or a bottle and try it. If I agree that the wine is delicious and a great value, then I can go back and get that case.

We all know we’re our own best judges. Let me know what you think. How do you go about buying wine minus the numbers system?