Archive for February, 2008

Can California Wines Be Aged?

Question from Jessica: I recently was told by a French wine connoisseur that he would not open a California wine bottle for 10 years +/- as he does with most of his French wines. When I purchased the wine, they told me that California wines are to be opened young. Can you please tell me how to know when to open a wine, specifically a California wine? Thank you.

Reply: Hi, Jessica! Thanks for writing! This seems to be our French vs. California month (see previous post)!

I wish there was a simple answer to your question, but there isn’t. I’ll start by giving you the big picture. I’m going to assume we’re speaking mainly about red wines although there are whites that age well, too.

Well aged wine in a cellar.

First, the vast majority of wines are meant for early consumption no matter where they come from. For long-term aging, we’re talking about fine wine.

Second, there can be a difference in longevity between the great wines of California and Europe because of climatic differences. In most of the famous European wine-producing regions the climate errs on the cold side. Cool-climate wines tend to be higher in acid than warm-climate wines and acid is an excellent natural preservative (another natural preservative common to red wine is tannin, which comes from the grape skins). High-acid wines can be hard to drink when they’re young, but they stay lively in the bottle longer.

Most of California leans toward the warm end of the scale, so the wines are often lower in acidity. This usually makes them easy to drink when they’re young, but they may show signs of old age sooner than their cool-climate counterparts.

That’s the big picture, but exceptions abound. If you’ve heard of the “Judgement of Paris” (they’re making two movies about it!), you might be interested to know that a 30th anniversary rematch was held in 2006 pitting approximately 30-year-old wines from California (Bordeaux-types) against great French Bordeaux wines of the same age. The California wines took the top-five ranks.

Longevity can also depend on the grape variety that makes the wine and the specific region and its climate/terrain within the country or state. The variety is stated on the label for most California wines, where French wine is usually named for the region and the varieties used for commercial winemaking in the region are regulated by local authorities. For instance, Beaujolais wines, made of the Gamay grape, aren’t generally intended for long-term aging the way a fine Bordeaux (Cabernet/Merlot) or Burgundy (Pinot Noir) are. Granted, Beaujolais isn’t considered to be in the same league with fine Burgundy or Bordeaux. That’s another reason not to make general assumptions about countries and their wines. A country such as France makes some of the very finest wines in the world and also very ordinary, every-day wines and everything in between - just like California!

So, I’m not trying to dodge your question - I’m trying to suggest that it depends upon the individual wine. Given the big picture, that wine shop didn’t give you such bad advice. Better too young than too old! Please don’t feel shy about asking questions when you buy wine because a good wine shop will have a knowledgeable staff who will be happy to help you.

There’s more detail about aging in this article on our website. I hope this helps!

Cheers!
Nancy

Does French Wine Have Less Alcohol Than California Wine?

Question from Dave: I always thought that the level of alcohol in a wine is dictated by the amount of sugar in the grape. Basically if you are producing a dry wine doesn’t the amount of sugar in the grapes dictate the percent of alcohol? I ask this because the wines in France are all in the 12 to 13 percent range. Is it because they harvest earlier not letting the sugar level in the grape get higher? Thanks, Dave

Reply: Hi, Dave! Thanks for writing! You are absolutely right. The alcohol moves with the sugar for dry table wines.

The main force at work here is climate. Here in sunny Napa Valley, when we complain, it’s often because there have been too many warm days. Heat sends the grape-sugar up and the acid down. On hot years the sugar may rise faster than the flavor matures. Since winemakers place a high value on flavor maturity, they may decide to wait for flavor development knowing that the resulting alcohol is likely to be a little higher than they wish (too much alcohol may feel hot on the palate and overwhelm the fruity aromas). That’s why the last three vintages have been such a blessing. The weather has been mild. Some viticulture professors believe that this may be the beginning of a trend, oddly enough, due to global warming.

Wine Refractometer Alcohol Tester

Wine Refractometer Alcohol Tester

In France, and other famous European growing regions, the more common concern is lack of heat and the threat of rain. Their warm years are usually the best ones (recently 2003, 2005). Some regions permit sugar additions (regulated by the local wine laws) in order to bring the alcohol up (if the alcohol isn’t high enough the wine may lack body and won’t feel satisfying on the palate). Many regions have established minimum alcohol levels in order to qualify for AOC status, or the equivalent for their country. They worry about high acidity, we worry about low acidity. So, climate change is working in their favor, too. They’re even expanding the wine-grape plantings in southern England, believe it or not!

So, that’s a long answer to a short question, but I hope it helps. Cheers! Nancy


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