Archive for the 'Living in Napa Valley' Category

Another Year, Another Harvest…

The feeling is anything but that. No matter how many harvests I witness, there’s nothing like the feeling when that first box of jewel-like grape clusters arrives at the winery. It still makes my heart race and tears spring to my eyes. Don’t know why. But I’d venture to guess that most true, hands-on winemakers feel the same way (actually, maybe they’re crying in anticipation of all the weeks of 24/7 work ahead rather than out of sentiment!). The vintage doesn’t start with the crush. A whole lot of their time and effort over most of the past year has been toward the goal of producing a great next vintage. Of course, they’ve got to take care of the wines they made last crush, but the next vintage starts calling pretty soon after the last one was put to bed in barrels.

At least for a small producer like Goosecross, the Winemaker is also the Vineyard Manager, and he gets really up-close and personal with the crop. He’s been walking the vine rows repeatedly, starting last winter with pruning, and then on to cultivating, shoot thinning, cluster thinning, checking for nutrient deficiencies and pest problems, more thinning, and he’s still walking now, checking the sugar and acid, tasting. He has a relationship with those vines.

And harvest is his one chance the whole year to get it right. You know if you make beer, or almost anything else, you can order the ingredients and get into production when it’s convenient. Not wine. When the grapes are ready, you’d better be in the mood! He needs to make the right decisions every step of the way from fresh grapes to wine and it all happens rather quickly. Once the wine is made, its basic character is pretty much formed and the goal is to sculpt and hone - not to do damage control.

We’ve started with a bang this year! 71/2 tons of Sauvignon Blanc Tuesday the 12th, 8 tons more on Wednesday, Chenin Blanc on Thursday and Cabernet from Howell Mountain on Friday! Literally, tons of work! We’ve got a play-by-play of the Goosecross crush if you check our Harvest Calendar, which is updated regularly. I think you’ll be surprised to see how quickly grape juice converts to wine, which is why it’s 24/7, and leads to the key phrase for surviving the crush: “Stock up. It takes a whole lot of beer to make good wine!”

What Was Your Transcendent Moment With Wine?

Weird question?  I think we can all (those of us who bother to read wine blogs) remember a situation or a particular wine that changed everything.  Somehow wine morphed from being a mere pleasure into a passion.

So, here’s mine:

I had a moderate interest in wine when I took my first job at a winery.  I thought it would be fun to work there until I found a “real job.”  I was 23, fresh out of school, and had no idea I was about to be thrown into the deep end with a bunch of wine geeks.  These guys (yes, they were mostly guys - it’s a very traditional business and this was a long time ago) would rather discuss the merits of white Burgundy vs. Napa Valley Chardonnay than last night’s A’s game or the movie they went to Saturday.  Sheesh!

But it got to me.  I was intrigued. Started buying those Burgundies and Chablis and tuning in to the conversation.

Then the moment came: went to a send-off party for a beloved employee at a local restaurant and the first thing to come was Champagne.  I didn’t like sparkling wine, in fact I thought it was awful.

I had this very wrong idea in my head.

My exposure to sparkling wine had been the cheap stuff they serve at weddings and the Cold Duck I’d downed at my grandparents.  Yuk!  So, I was going to skip it, but thought maybe I should be polite and took a sip.

What????  This was really good stuff! Nothing like fizzy Kool-Aid!  More, please…

1973 Veuve Clicquot from magnum.  Bone dry, biscuit-like, toasty, yeasty nose backed by some beautiful green apple and a hint of truffle.  Like cream on the palate, but ethereal and crisp - the mysterious thing that makes the best of them unforgettable.  Made my mouth water.  Could have spent the rest of my life with my nose in the glass.  That was it.  And my love affair with Champagne lead me to cherish the endless complexities in the broader world of wine too.  That was my transcendent moment.

For sure, there are bottles of bubbly that are supposed to be greater, after all this wasn’t La Grande Dame or Cristal, but not for me.  That magnum was the beginning of the end of my search for that “real job”, thrilled to say.

Telling a story like this makes me feel a bit exposed, but since I told you mine I’m hoping it will prompt you to tell me yours.  These are some of the great moments and stories in life, so bring ‘em on!


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Goosecross Cellars
We're in Yountville... "The Heart" of Napa Valley
1119 State Lane, Yountville, CA 94599 * 707.944.1986
Open - 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. daily - (800) 276-9210

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